Detailed Review
Perched high above the desert capital of Jodhpur, Umaid Bhawan Palace is the last of the great palaces of India and one of the largest residences in the world – set amidst 26 acres of lush gardens. Named after Maharaja Umaid Singh, grandfather of the present Maharaja of Jodhpur, this golden-yellow sandstone monument was conceived on the grandest possible scale, in the fashionable Art Deco style of that time. After 15 years in construction, the 347-room palace was finally completed in 1943 – and has served as the principal residence of the Jodhpur royal family since. Designed by renowned Edwardian architect Henry Lanchester, the palace is a blend of eastern and western architectural influences. Its majestic 105-foot high cupola is influenced by the Renaissance, while the towers draw inspiration from Rajput tradition. The lavish interiors with gilt furniture and elegant artwork follow the Art Deco style, complemented by the exotic murals of the self-exiled Polish artist Stefan Norblin.
Independent Reviews
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"The last of the great palaces of India and one of the largest residences in the world - true old-world colonial glamour in Jodhpur."
Art Deco meets Indo-colonial, in a magical Indian palace set on a hilltop overlooking the city of Jodphur. This place has got it all - original tailor-made furnishings, a musical fountain made entirely of crystal, a colonnaded verandah, and manicured lawns that would put even Kew Gardens to shame. Go even if you can?t afford the room rate. Sip tea on the verandah, take advantage of the delicious dinner buffet and stroll around the Hotel?s imposing interior. Prepare to be awestruck. (TI writer Brendan Sainsbury)
Umaid Bharvan
By Caroline Major
Just Another Rajasthani Palace? Absolutely not! This one is a real living one. I met the Crown prince, and watched his mother, the Maharani, glide around in the hotel shop, helping a Japanese tourist (yes, they do make it to the Indian Desert) fit a Kaurta. The prince is just one of a few reasons to visit this Desert Palace - he is every bit the Bollywood movie star and educated to boot, (although I do hear that he has a penchant for french women). His palace was finished in 1943, but designed between 1929 and 1932, and is an Art Deco museum, packed with history. The history here is primarily about people. At the Umaid Bhawan, many of the people who began working here when the Maharaja moved in in 1942, shortly before Indian independence, are still working. You’ll find the curly mustachioed Rajput doormen and waiters saluting you as they did their Kings when you take breakfast, or return from a mornings’ sightseeing. There is the privilege of ’Boochy’ taking you on a guided tour. This elegant woman is heiress of a prominent Rajput family, and custodian of the Palace history. Her grandfather, Regent to the Maharajah three times in his life (the royal family, head of the Rathorne clan of the Rajputs, have suffered 3 generations of untimely deaths) passed on to her many stories while in the family service. On her retirement as secretary to Prime Minister Nehru’s sister, she returned to the palace to catalogue many of the artifacts, creating a museum and curating the collection of art and family portraits. An hour in her company is a fascinating view of the human side of Indian history. Spend your time exploring the nooks and crannies of the palace, and enjoy the work the family has gone to in turning 2/3 of their family home into a 122 room hotel, while still preserving its historical integrity. Give yourself time to drink at the Pillars bar outdoors. At the back of the hotel, it overlooks the gardens. Beyond the garden, enjoy the Jodhpur panorama, a second palace to your left, and the spectacular 13th century Mehrangarh Fort. Even better, plan your trip to co-incide with the full moon, and imagine yourself living, Gatsby-like, in the 1930s, with iced tea or a fresh lime soda. If you can afford it, spring for a suite. The Vice Regal has a magnificent bathroom, and is a favourite of the current Exterior Minister (ex Foreign Minister), or the Maharani suite, which has one of Art Deco’s most photographed bathrooms. This suite will only set you back $750 USD per night, but you’ll have to remember to pack your evening gowns and your long tortoiseshell cigarette holder. You will be treated like a princess. Don’t forget your swim suit either. The experience continues in the basement with its masterly swimming pool. Covered in aquatic frescos in silver and blue, they offer a good massage at very affordable prices. The only thing that you’ll need to get used to here is that constant mantra: ’Everything good sir?’ Yes thank you.
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Condé Nast Traveller 2008 Gold List
